So much for tuning in in today's video I'll be installing a complete custom rear end into my VA. Swapped. 89. S10. In case you missed the last episode. I put a link in the description box below it's, one that you do not want to miss because my buddy Joe and I got the truck fired up for the first time and we ran the engine through its initial break in boy. Does this sound really really good? Since then, I have made a lot of progress off camera I'm, just trying to get a lot of the boring stuff out of the way. So we can finally get the truck off in the lift and on to its maiden test drive, of course, towards the end of this video. I will be covering all of those updates, so I can show you guys, where I'm currently, at with the truck the rear end, is definitely one of the more crucial aspects of the bill, because the stock, seven and a half is perfectly fine for standard Duty. But once you start adding a pretty decent amount of power, it does start to get a bit weak, Plus this truck came from the factory with 308 gearing out back as well as an open differential, so I'm gon na swap in a much better setup that I Know will be quote unquote, bulletproof for how I'm gon na use the truck, and it will be relatively easy to install, which is always a plus.
This is a GM eight point. Five rear into came out of a 2nd gen, blazer zr2. If you keep up with s tins I'm sure you're wondering now how in the world is a zr2 rear, end gon na work, because four wheel drives have a wider rear in that than two wheel drives, and then the zr2 is even whiter than the four wheel Drives so this rear end has actually been cut down and modified to two wheel: drive width if you're hunting through s tins and blazers this rear end is not the easiest thing to come by again. They came in the zr 2s, but they also came in a select number of blazers. I think they were. The two wheel drive two door: 4.3 v6 5 speed trucks, so very specific if there's any other ones feel free to post them. In the comments below I can't remember right off, but the zr 2's are relatively more common, so that's why this one was built using the zr 2 we're in another common rear end upgrade for s. Tens is the Ford 8.8, which also requires its own unique set of modifications to be able to work in an s10, and I just don't know a whole lot about fabricating and building something to that extreme. So I was trying to find something that was relatively Bolton and simple and that's what I found with this 8.5. I came across a company in Ohio, called JD race and restoration, and they actually build these 8.
5 s. Custom spec to your applications, so mine has a limited slip. Differential 342 gears most are 30 spline axles and it's supposed to handle well over 600 horsepower, which is well over what this trucks gon na make. But it's gon na be just a really really awesome setup that I don't ever have to worry about, even if I plan on upgrading the truck more in the future, so let's get to it a big thanks once again to O'Reilly Auto Parts for supporting the channel. If you guys are currently working on some projects or you need to get some maintenance done on your daily driver, don't forget to check out a Reilly, auto comm and take advantage of the exclusive discount code, sob Kyle xx, which gets you 20 off of purchases of 100 or more, I put a link in the description box below I'm, not sure how well this is gon na work out yet. But my initial plan of attack is going to be of removing the portions of the suspension that are just in the way I'm. Also going to leave the wheels attached and lower the truck as close to the ground, as I can to hopefully be able to just roll the whole rear and assembly out from underneath the truck Applause, Applause. Applause all right, the suspensions out of the way now let's roll out the rear end before I move on to installing the rear end there's, a couple of other things I want to tackle.
The first thing is installing some low profile bump stops. Since I got rid of the factory setup, I'll also be installing a set of setback plates. Just like the lowering blocks and opinion alignment. Shims that I have these set back plates are also from jtr stealth. Conversions. The whole point of them is to move the rear. End half inch further back so, depending on what swap you're doing the type of transmission and whatnot. If your driveshaft is just a little too long, you can possibly get away with using these and save yourself a trip to a driveshaft shop to have the driveshaft shortened. Now I may still have to shorten mine. I think the driveshaft is going to be an inch too long. So with these plates I might still have a half inch. I don't know we'll figure it out, but they're pretty inexpensive anyway, so I figured I'd, give them a try. Now they claim – and I can't measure this to show you guys all have to wait till the truck is all back together that the factory wheel center line is actually three eighths of an inch past, the centerline of the wheel. Well, so if that's true, then these should actually place the rear wheels pretty much dead on center in the wheel. Well so that's cool and they also act as a 38 lowering block so I'm, going to end up taking out the half inch block that I have right here and you know just put it in its place.
Applause with all of that, out of the way let's go ahead and fit the new rear, end Applause, it kind of goes without saying that this process is a whole lot easier. If you're able to work on a flat surface like this and if you're able to take the bed off the truck, because you can use the engine hoist and make this a relatively easy one person job now, we'll say it was a bit trickier. Getting the rear. End back in the truck, as you saw, I use the engine hoist to get it to here. Then I put it on that dolly rolled it up inside then I had to drop. One of the leaf springs completely, so I can get this back in. So this can be Jack back up, then the truck had to be raised back up and now we're here. So the leaf springs are back in place and all I have to do is drop the rear end back down onto the perches Applause. I went ahead and got the suspension both the back in and I'm happy to say everything lines up perfect. My only real concern was the sway bar and with just a slight change of hardware. It fits perfect too, when it's set all the way up. The lower portion of the sway bar just clears the differential. I did have to get new hardware for the attachment points here. The sway bars just held onto the axle tubes via exhaust clamps, but on the old axle it had two and a half inch exhaust clamps.
So I ended up running down to O'Reilly right quick and I grabbed some of three inch exhaust clips, which you can see over here, fit absolutely perfect. So all of this is gon na get to go back together. Exactly the weight came off now that the rear end is in place I'm gon na go ahead and replace the factory differential cover with this upgraded one that I got a while back, it's made of very thick aluminum it's a lot thicker than the factory cover there's. A number of manufacturers out there that make these upgraded differential covers. I went the bnm just more or less a personal preference, because I, like the powder coated finish and the fact that it comes with a magnetic drain plug, but because of its thickness, it actually increases the overall case rigidity and a common feature that you'll find in These covers is a reinforced Center section. With these load bolts, you tighten them up against the bearing caps that help to prevent bearing cap deflection under harder acceleration. So the whole thing just keeps everything a lot tighter there's some other benefits too. Like increased fluid capacity, you have a fill port up here and these heat sinks, which help keep the rear end cooler, it's, just a simple, remove and reinstall. Thankfully, I don't have any fluid in this rear end. Yes, I have to worry about draining everything out, but if you did, you would undo the bolts enough to where you can pop the cover loose drain, the fluid and then once it's all out.
You can take the rest of the bolts out and remove the cover. Here'S, the heart of the new rear, end it's, a Yukon gear, Durack grip, posi unit with four sprung composite clutches and forged steel spider gears it's, a fully rebuildable, which is nice for the long term and, like I said earlier, I specified 342 gears. I figured that would give a good balance between overall performance and daily usability should be a really nice setup. Looking at the original cover versus the new cover side by side – and you can see just how much more substantial the new cover really is – the load bolts are in place once the cover is back on the rear end I'll tighten them up against the bearing caps, But first I need to lay a bead of RTV all the way around. Well aside from filling this thing up with fluid the rear end is all finished. I tightened down the load bolts to about five foot pounds it's about hand, tight, it's, really important not to over torque those, because the little pivot ball at work. The little pivot thing on the end is actually designed to break under higher stress. You also got to coat the threads of the load bolts as you're tighten them in with RTV just to prevent any possible fluid leaks. Of course, there's some jam nuts on the outside to hold everything together and it's. Looking really good to wrap everything up, let's go ahead and install the rear, disc conversion kit.
I was gon na save this afford the brake video, which already is gon na, have a quite a lot going on, and I still have to hook up all the parking, brake, cables and lines and all of that stuff. I just want to get this Hardware on the rear end and see how it looks, because this is gon na be quite awesome. This truck originally came with drum brakes, and if I wanted to continue to run drum brakes, I very well could I would just have to run down to O'Reilly and grab some drum brake backing plates from a second generation s10, because these axle tubes are from a Newer truck and the bolt spacing is different compared to the rear end that came out of the truck, but the company putting this rear end together actually ran out of drum backing plates, so they didn't include them and kind of worked out at the end of the Day, because if you were gon na do a disc conversion that backing plate has to go now, what's really nice about this kit that I bought from Little Shop manufacturing. Is that it's all designed to bolt on to this flange without having to remove the axles? That being said, that involves using a cut off wheel and actually cutting the drum brake backing plates off, because if you were going to just remove them and save them or sell them, you would have to take off the back cover, remove the seat.
Clips that hold the axles in place, pull the axles and then pull the backing plate, so it's quite a bit of work, but since none of that is there, we don't have to worry about all that we can just start bolting on all of this new hardware. When upgrading from drums to disks, you might also need to get an upgraded master cylinder that has the correct proportioning for four wheel. Disc brakes I'm also doing some pretty significant upgrades to the front brakes. So one that has you know a larger diameter bore. Probably doesn't hurt as well but I'll be covering all of this in the next video, of course, with any projects. Sometimes you need to get a little creative depending on you know what setup that you're trying to do so. I had to mount the calipers a little different from what the directions originally suggested and big shout out to my buddy Joe for coming over and my time of me, because I just could not figure this out. So the directions said to mount the caliper adapter bracket on the inside of that flange that I showed you guys earlier, but I could barely get that caliper on and there was no way this one was going to fit, and even you know, even if I could, The rotors were like locked in place, so it just it wasn't gon na work, so I ended up having to mount the adapter bracket on this side of the flange and then shim the caliper from there.
So I've got the caliper exactly where it needed to be there's just enough space to allow free play with the rotors and everything lines up, as it should so very happy about that I'm. Honestly, not sure that if there's, probably some sort of differing measurements somewhere between a setup that has a factory axles versus mind which have aftermarket axles, because again, this rear end is measured out to the width of a two wheel. Drive s10. So, regardless of what the issue was it's fixed now and that's all that matters well, everyone then, is just about gon na wrap it up for this video. But before I sign off, like I said at the beginning, I want to give you a quick look at the truck just to update you all with where I'm, at with all the progress of the making camera. As far as the engine have been working on wiring. For the most part, I've got my electric fans wired up with the thermostatic control. So now they come on at a specific temperature. I'Ve got a few more wires to run, but everything that I'm running is basically new at this point and it's all going through a hole in the firewall that used to be for the cruise control. You know wire harness so all of that's in there and it's insulated. I still have to pull all of this wiring out to this as part of the fan harness I'm gon na wrap everything in wire, loom and tuck as much of it as I can to make it all nice and clean, but it is really coming together.
I also got my throttle: cable linkage in place, which was very fun note the sarcasm, but I wasn't able to use the 4.3 throttle cable bracket because it positioned the cable too far back it wouldn't reach the carburetor, so I took one off of an 86 Chevy C10, along with the return spring and that put everything more in proper alignment, but the cable inside, where attaches to the pedal, had a little too much slack. So I cut the cable, got a cable, stop and tied everything up in there. So there's plenty of slack or the proper amount of slack between the pedal and the carburetor and everything works as it should remember. When I was saying I was tossing around the idea of getting the typhoon steering wheel restored. Well, I ended up doing it and it turned out fantastic. The bed is finally back on so it's, starting to look like a truck once again. I'Ve had some questions regarding the different color body panels like you saw in front and obviously the bed, and if I haven't talked about it before this truck when I bought it, I didn't realize till after I bought it, but it had a lot of hail damage. The original bed also was very used. There was a lot of dents and dings, which you know you would get with normal use of a truck, but with, as far as the restoration is concerned, it's actually cheaper to try to find a clean bed than it is to do all dent repair and the Bodywork and stuff so taking that into consideration, I've got body panels off one of my parts truck that I've swapped out for the front.
I'Ve got a new cowl hood down there I'm also gon na be swapping out the door so really the only bodywork. You know you know, the majority of the bodywork is gon na, be on the top end of the truck, but shouldn't be too big of a deal. Speaking of paint instead of repainting, this truck the original red, which was what I was originally going to do. I'M. Actually, thinking about repainting it white on grey, like you see right here, just something about this two tone: combo with everything within the engine bay and then, when you take the white and gray and contrast it with the red interior, all man. I think that would just look really really nice and maybe maybe do a little extra, maybe we'll add a little bit of pearl flake to it or something just to get a little fancy, but I think that would look really really good but not set on it. Just yet just tossing around the idea, I've bought a lot of really cool things for this truck, but this bed cover is probably one of my favorites so far. This is a fiberglass bed cover that opens up like a trunk, so there's a pair of gas charged struts, and when you twist that lock right there, it opens up like up to about maybe right there so – and I was thinking you know taking this thing on Trips and whatnot, it would be really nice to be able to put luggage and whatnot in there and not have to worry about the possibility of a rain shower or so.
But this is just it's in phenomenal condition, and I didn't realize it till my buddy with Joe was showing me, but these body lines actually match the lines of the hood, which is super super cool, and I got lucky enough to actually get the original key for The lock there's the handle I'm thinking about doing a video of installing this it's really quite simple, so I don't know if it'll get its own. Video or it'll be a part of another video or just be b roll somewhere, but I definitely think it's worth highlighting just because I love it it's it gon na look really really nice and be very functional anyway. That'S it for this video I hope y'all enjoyed. Please don't forget to leave a like below, because it really helps the video a lot and, if you haven't, subscribed already consider doing so because there's a lot more content where that came from don't forget Oh Riley, auto comm for all of your parts needs and use The code sob Kyle 20 to get that discount a link is in the description box below I'll, see you guys on the next one.